The Story Behind TAAN’s Khao Chae

We’re welcoming summer with our own version of khao chae, Thailand’s favourite dish for beating the heat.  

Khao chae, which means “rice soaked in water,” has a long, long history, which Chef Monthep “Thep” Kamolsilp seeks to explore in his own unique style. His sides are boldly flavoured and big on body-warming properties, which diners can enjoy with a refreshing blend of “scrubbed” jasmine rice, Korat osmanthus green tea and jasmine-infused water.

From lacto-fermented lychee bursting with umami to smoky Surat Thani oyster to aromatic Ranong lobster, Chef Thep crafts a khao chae journey devoted to blending the past and the present. 

“The soul of khao chae is in worship,” Chef Thep explained. “As a kid growing up, I had no real reference for khao chae — I just remember being really curious to find what it’s actually all about. What we do at TAAN is follow the khao chae structure, but step away from tradition.”

We recommend to eat the following condiments in the order listed, using the fragrant water as a palate-cleanser.  

Lacto Fermented Mae Klong Lychee and Tiny Roses

Fermented with salt for one week, lychee is sundried for a further three days, similar to sundried radish, and then topped with rose and beetroot powder. This tasty morsel is sure to start your khao chae journey on a uniquely umami note. 

Chili Smoked Kanchanadit Oyster

Sourced from the sandy seabeds of Surat Thani, these oysters are remarkable for the clean and iodine-rich meat. We smoke them for 15 minutes with chilli and pepper powder, and then add a “pearl” of kapi and dill leaf. Equal parts smoky and creamy.

Surat Thani Black Sheatfish Red Curry Jam Stuffed in Shallot

Grilled black sheatfish is mortared and added to a stir-fry of coconut milk, sugar, galangal, red curry, Ranong shrimp paste and herbs. It takes three hours to achieve a rich and smooth paste, which is then stuffed into shallot that’s been braised to remove the stem. It’s deep-fried in a batter of rice and tapioca flour for a subtly crisp finish. 

Burmese Shrimp Paste Jam Popped Rice

The result of 3-4 hours’s slow-cooking, Chef Thep’s heady mix of Burmese shrimp paste, long pepper, finger root, coriander seed and more takes its succulent edge from being deep-fried with duck egg. While other places will put sundried fish meat in this bite, Chef Thep does not. The secret weapon? Chef Thep’s twist on katsuobushi — duck cured with salt, dried in the sun, smoked on a grill for one week and shaved to a fine flake. 

Ranong Lobster Stuffed in Burnt Green Chili Wrapped with Egg Net

When it comes to prik yad sai (stuffed chili), most places use sweet pepper, but here Chef Thep opts for green goat horn pepper for a burnt, smoky touch. Inside goes lobster that’s been marinated with saam gler (coriander root, garlic and pepper). After steaming, the chilli is wrapped in a delicate egg net for an extra layer of texture.  

Fried Pork Stuffed in Red Chili

Don Rae pork rump from Ratchaburi is also seasoned with saam gler (coriander root, garlic and pepper), stuffed in a blanched and peeled chilli, and then deep-fried with duck egg

Crispy Shredded Chonburi’s Chai Aree Chicken

Organic Chai Aree chicken breast from Chonburi is steamed and shredded, seasoned with sugar and salt, and then deep-fried. An aromatic bite bursting with the fragrance of deep-fried shallot, black cardamom and long pepper. 

Scrubbed Jasmine Rice

After washing and cooking the rice for seven minutes, we remove it from the water and scrub it in the strainer to remove any glutinous flour around it. The rice is then steamed for another 10 minutes for a grainy, not-too-creamy mouthfeel that will refresh with every bite.  

Korat Osmanthus Green Tea and Jasmine-Infused Water

We infuse the water for two nights with green tea from Chiang Rai, osmanthus from Korat and jasmine from Ratchaburi. The result is light and fragrant, cold-brew style, free from the fliminess that comes with candle-smoke. 

TAAN’s khao chae set is available for dine-in and take-away in limited numbers only starting from 1st April 2021, priced at THB 490/set. 

Pre-order available now via 065 328 7374 (Tue – Sat 1-10 pm) and Line official account @taanbangkok.