TAAN’s “3 Forests 5 weather” Chef’s Table Provided a Masterclass in Foraged Local Ingredients

TAAN’s first ever chef’s table dinner event saw three of the country’s top culinary talents combine forces for one unforgettable night showcasing a wealth of foraged Thai produce.

The nine-course dinner, which took place under the concept of “3 Forests 5 Weather,” was designed as a platform for TAAN Executive Chef Monthep “Thep” Kamolsilp and his guests, Chef Chalermpon “Van” Rohitratana (of Bangkok’s Rarb, Dag) and Phanuphon “Black” Bulsuwan (of Chiang Mai’s Blackitch Artisan Kitchen), to present food that’s distinctly Thai but that also takes into consideration towards healthy eating and sustainability.

On the night, each chef was able to demonstrate his own unique spin on Thai cuisine spotlighting good-quality ingredients from each of their respective regions–from the highlands of northern Thailand to the forests and plains of the northeast to the “concrete jungle” that is Bangkok.

The dinner kicked off with Chef Van’s raw dish of barking deer and fermented wild boar sausage with pumpkin sauce which captured the nose-to-tail spirit of the Isaan region in Thailand’s northeast. Chef Van explained that mankind has long consumed raw meat, since before the discovery of fire, even if the practice has fallen out of fashion somewhat in recent times. However, this was not just any version of tartare, with Chef Van explaining he wanted to present a dish that matches the quirky vibe of Siam@Siam Bangkok Design Hotel—hence the unusual addition of meringue.

All the ingredients Chef Van used were sourced Huay Dua Market, which is located in Nongbua

lamphu province. He explained that ingredients only found in the forest are the backbone of Isaan cuisine, with daily eating habits largely dictated by what ingredients are found on the day—with frequently creative results.

Meanwhile, Chef Black informed us that due to the higher altitude of Thailand’s northern forests, they are home to many herbs you can’t find anywhere else. What’s more, these herbs are what have come to define the local cuisine—as Northern Thai food features more heavy seasoning than in other regions. “It is very important to be aware how crucial the forests are. If we no longer have the forests, then these foods will no longer exist,” said Chef Black. For the event, he created sai oua pang nom, northern-style udder sausage marinated with 13 wild herbs that can be found only in the north. Chef Black said he chose to use herbs all from the same source to demonstrate just how much the environment traditionally dictates a region’s culinary culture.

Finally, it was Chef Thep’s turn to shine a light on Bangkok’s “concrete forest,” turning his attention to edible vegetation foraged from sidewalks and motorways. He explained that as the city has evolved, its range of vegetables has in turn narrowed. As such, he decided to look beyond the regular choices in order to incorporate lesser-known ingredients. “As Bangkok is so polluted, I also wanted to add some smoky elements to the dishes too, just for fun,” said Chef Thep.

Another interesting topic raised on the night was about how Thailand’s climate has changed over time, thus affecting

farmers’ well-being due to shortening of the rainy season and drought. Lopburi, a province with one of the country’s lowest annual rainfalls, is one such location where this is evident. Here, the most commonly grown crop is corn. In order to grow it, farmers have had to put their faith in the royal rainmaking project of King Rama IX. The project has been so successful, that many have dubbed it the “fifth season”—hence inspiring the event’s name.

A good meal would be incomplete without a great dessert, and the final course here captured this “Five Seasons” concept perfectly. We’re talking about Chef Thep’s unique creation, Royal Rain Lopburi corn with homemade butter. This dish, which also incorporated Chef Thep’s years of experience in Western cuisine, is also a good representative of TAAN’s’s Hyper Local Innovative Thai Cuisine direction: this is Thai food, but not as you know it.

Stay tuned for more delicious and thought-provoking culinary events held at TAAN.